It comes from less volcanic soils from Badacsonyörs, which may account for its approachability at this young age. It was spontaneously fermented and aged for eight months in used 500 liter barrels. There are some exceptions to the lay-down rule, such as Válibor’s Kéknyelű from the 2018 vintage (HUF 4,130 from artizanshop.hu), which has lovely inviting and quite rare (for this grape) floral aromas, alongside the usual citrus, and a rich and deep palate with an oily texture. In this way, it is very like Hunter Valley Semillon from New South Wales, Australia, which is also citrusy and simple to begin with, but ramps up the complexity over a decade or two. I actually made the conclusion that this wine was still approaching its peak in 2016 and needed another year or two for its acidity to fully round out. It certainly has a strong sense of place about it. This is a wine which is still very much with it and has probably only recently peaked, with its floral, baked fruit and nutty aromas and dense, long palate, with a good dose of structure-building acidity.
BEVY HOTEL FULL
However, the solution appears to be simple, though few appear to be doing it (perhaps for cash-flow concerns) lay it down and let it age! Rather than getting old and tired, the wines transform to become rich, rounded and full of life.Ī case in point is the 2006 by Szeremley (HUF 4,075 from borkereskedes.hu), the modern region’s pioneer. The region’s indigenous Kéknyelű grape could be Badacsony’s calling card but, in most cases, it comes up short and somewhat sour, with a very neutral, austere character with just a touch of citrus and painfully sharp acidity. This year’s Badacsony New Yorkban tasting (literally Badacsony in New York) saw many of the region’s finest winemakers hit Budapest’s legendary coffee house on February 28 and it was a buzzing affair. Nevertheless, there’s still much chiseling to be done to smooth out some rough volcanic edges. I recall the dry generally being clean and quaffable (if it a little watery) and appealing to my then primitive palate.įast forward to 2020 and Badacsony is a hive of vinous activity and creativity with a growing group of winemakers skillfully crafting wines that channel the essence of their place of growth into the glass. My first brush with Badacsony was two decades back, when vintners there would merely greet you by asking whether you wanted “száraz vagy édes” (“sweet or dry”). The dark basalt soils and the moderating influence of the water can, and increasingly do, yield wines with fine purity of fruit and subtle salinity.
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